Pete, Tish, Fiona and I had planned this Autumn trip to Mallorca way back in February with the objective of getting up Sa Gubia Normal one of the classic (some would say THE classic) Mallorcan Climbs.
Pete & Tish had already got some climbing in when we met up at our accommodation, Con Rosa, on Saturday afternoon. This is a lovely traditional Mallorcan house in the small village of Estellencs (Contact: Nadia Watkins Majorca Holiday House Estellencs). [There are other beautiful villas in Majorca to choose from if the one we used is booked.]
Suggestions of visiting the Torrent de Paries were quickly dashed when we realised time would have meant a very late finish (maybe even after midnight) so a little cragging was done at a relatively recently developed site about 20 minutes drive away. It was late so only two climbs were got in before time for tea.
Sunday we split into two teams of Pete and I & Fiona and Tish to ensure we had a strong enough climber in each party, Pete & I tackled the slight harder line which goes at grade 5 and Fiona and Tish headed up the normal route of 4+, many of the pitches and belays are common so this made for a still very sociable days climbing. It was steep but good climbing all the way up with positive holds, and good protection though aside from the belays Guiba Normal is a traditional climb rather than the bolted sport routes that are generally found on the Island.
Pete & Tish had to go home for work 😥 , Fiona and I were pretty wiped from the previous day so we had an easy bumble around Port Soller.
Some plant I brushed on Gubia normal made my hand red on Monday and by Tuesday it looked like this! 😮
Still this didn’t put us off a gentle days cragging at Sector Pipe S’estret where there are by Mallorcan standards some easier grade climbs. Fiona was pleased to get up some climbs that spat her off last time we visited the island so all in all a successful and very enjoyable mini break.