This ultra-classic alpine rock-route had eluded me for so many years that I had long since lost interest in it. Besides, I had decided to give up long alpine climbs after 2003, though had usually been tricked into a least one a season since then.
So during one of only two weather windows for such a route, I found myself as the fourth member of an itinerant Wayfarers’ group (part of the joint AC/FRCC/CC Brigaglia meet) at the Sasc Fura Hut, under the Piz Badile. There had been snow on the ridge that morning and aspirant parties had departed empty handed. We were trusting to luck that the one day good forecast would come true.
As with all Alpine climbs, but perhaps more so, when you’re up the game isn’t even half way over. A number of options exist for descent. The least unattractive seemed a descent to the Gianetti Hut on the Italian side, which is what we did. The other options are twenty rappels with jamming ropes back down the ridge or traverse back to the Sasc Fura Hut via the long and (this year icy) Trubinasca pass. Of course, it’s a long way home from the Gianetti Hut but our good friends drove around from Vicosoprano and met us at the Hut. 😀