Terry & John Hollands are in Paklenica, Croatia. As is often the case, our eyes were bigger than the rest of our faculties and we decided to go first off for the absolute classic of the area, Mosoraski on Anica Kuk, ten pitches, 350m (then you have to get off!)
As you can, see Anica Kuk is very high and steep, about the size of Yamnuska. Most of the climbs are very hard and Mosoraski is about the easiest on the face and takes a weaving line through very serious and impressive rock scenery.
Eight pitches up comes the 5c bit. We hoped mountain 5c would be easier than crag. It wasn’t and it was sparsely bolted to boot! Up the slippery slab then out of sight to a never ending, steep, smooth diedre around the corner. To fall off here would not bear contemplation.
Rather than rappel a complex route, we decided to walk to the summit of Anica Kuk and descend the tedious path to the base – in rock shoes! But better safe than sorry.
Dehydrated (30°C), we drank the fountain in Marasovici village dry, then proceed to do likewise in Dinko’s bar at the entrance to the gorge. Dinko’s nice old dog joined us as well.
Needless to say, we were knackered today! But good job done and I can confidently say I’ll never do that route again.