Anica Kuk

Terry & John Hollands are in Paklenica, Croatia. As is often the case, our eyes were bigger than the rest of our faculties and we decided to go first off for the absolute classic of the area, Mosoraski on Anica Kuk, ten pitches, 350m (then you have to get off!)

As you can, see Anica Kuk is very high and steep, about the size of Yamnuska. Most of the climbs are very hard and Mosoraski is about the easiest on the face and takes a weaving line through very serious and impressive rock scenery.

This mock, oversized carabiner marks the start of route
Here you see JH on lower ground
Here you see the view across the face

Eight pitches up comes the 5c bit. We hoped mountain 5c would be easier than crag. It wasn’t and it was sparsely bolted to boot! Up the slippery slab then out of sight to a never ending, steep, smooth diedre around the corner. To fall off here would not bear contemplation.

Even then, the are some moments in the final chimney/cracks exit

Rather than rappel a complex route, we decided to walk to the summit of Anica Kuk and descend the tedious path to the base – in rock shoes! But better safe than sorry.

Dehydrated (30°C), we drank the fountain in Marasovici village dry, then proceed to do likewise in Dinko’s bar at the entrance to the gorge. Dinko’s nice old dog joined us as well.

Needless to say, we were knackered today! But good job done and I can confidently say I’ll never do that route again.

13 thoughts on “Anica Kuk”

  1. Well done! :star: As a rest, you could climb Sjeverno rebro on Veliki Cuk (H), it’s a beautiful ridge climb. Good to see John in good shape! What a fat dog! 😯 Is that rocket fuel you’re drinking ❓ 3 more days of slavery :angry: and I’m coming! 😛

  2. About a foot long on the major axis. It really needed a person in the shot to give it perspective.

    Good job we did route when we did. The last two afternoons have seen massive heat-storms. We’d have been in big trouble 😥

  3. well done Terry; a good route on an impressive bit of rock!
    How is it that you seem to get younger, while the rest of us are feeling our age??
    Are you self-prescribing?????

  4. The secret is to maintain a child-like naivety, just like Pete already does. Incidentally, I found this youtube post of an Austrian guy who clearly thought top pitch was hardest, just like me. Only 10 feet to go and ten pitches up and you come to this steep wall with orange holds, like squelched orages, spattered all over it!

  5. Hey Keith, great that you’ve done that route 😛 You’re the only other English person I know to have done it 😀

    Paklenica must have been a lot different in 1981 though 😕 Many more routes now and very polished on the single pitch routes of Klanci 😥

    In fact, I wouldn’t recommend it anymore as a single pitch venue – there are far better places, though possibly not so cheap 🙁

    But for multi-pitch it is as good as, and reminiscent of, El Potrero Chico and I’ll be going back again :yum:

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