For our summer girls weekend out we originally planned to do a nice climbing and mountaineering weekend to the Lämmeren hut starting from Kandersteg (CH). But as the weather didn’t really provide a compatible setting with unpredictable weather and warnings of thunderstorms we had to re-decide last minute finally driving to the cradle of sport climbing in Germany the Frankenjura. We stayed at the campground of grandma Eichler (known as the Camp 4 of the Frankenjura). Arriving Friday late at night we enjoyed a fantastic night sky watching the falling stars wishing for a dry weekend of climbing limestone single pitch routes. Being prepared for a comfortable “sport” climbing adventure we left my nuts and friends at home only taking a few slings! FAIL! Looking at the guidebook we realized that most areas recommend using nuts and slings for the very few areas offering routes below 6c! Great! No way we could lead any of those on a first day (not even on the second or third 😉 . Nevertheless we finally scored a nice climbing area called Elfenwelt (elfs world) and lead some really nice routes 5b to 6a with interesting names such as “addicted elf” and “chasted elf”.
Waking up the next morning the weather didn’t really look very promising. It rained at night and still drizzled ;( . We decided to check out some of the promising climbing areas, especially a newly opened on called “Intensivstation” (Emergency Room). The last one being a house rock of a couple that bought a house with nice limestone crags in their backyard – NICE! Great climbing and all still new and sharp. We climbed on of the nicest routes ever in regards to bolts, holds and enjoyable moves. Driving home we knew one thing – we are finally back in climbing mode after a long summer on our bikes!
