May 08 14
It was midweek so Jon and I had an early start and sweated our way up to Gimmer Crag. Jon had a route in mind, and so did I; so it was on my route Kipling Groove that we warmed up. Actually it was out of the sun, so we never did warm up. In fact it was freezing.
Jon decided I should lead both pitches, which seemed like a good idea………….. if only I’d known.
The first pitch was ok, as was the first half of the second pitch, but it was the crux where it all went pear-shaped. I was up and down the crux holds at least 6 times, looking for a way to gain the obvious big hold. My gear was only a 3/4 wire and a micro-cam so I wasn’t too keen on coming off. Finally, and at this stage pretty pumped (lack of fitness) I worked it out and got the jug with both hands. Feet were sketchy, but I thought I was ok. I moved up to a pinch hold and went for what appeared to be a good hold higher up. (Only later did Jon tell me I should have kept going rightwards!) At this stage my feet came off and I attempted a Sly Stallone grab at the jug as I went back down past it. Needless to say only Sly can pull that off and I was back 10 feet below the crux.
Jon shot up the pitch, and on a second go I realised how wrong I had gone by not continuing right….
oh well Jon’s turn next, and he’d chosen Eastern Hammer …………
Jon was pretty smooth up the first 3/4 of the pitch, but obviously found the top crux moves a bit tricky. I think even Jon was pumped as he pulled through the final bulge……….. but success! A good day out, only slightly spoilt when the cafe at Chapel Stile was closed, so no cake pic for the blog.
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