Oct 09 25
Yes there was sun in northern Spain last week, oh joy. Apparently Galicia should have rain 24/7 at this time of year but we were sooooo lucky and didn’t see a drop. I had made a rendezvous with Joanne to walk part of the Camino Santiago de Compostela – neither of us had a few weeks to spare for the whole thing, but we could manage a few days to spend on the last section. There are loads of websites about this but basically it has been a pilgrimage route for hundreds of years, and still is.
We started at Cruz de Ferro and walked through sierras decorated with wind turbines – lots of wind turbines.
Joanne had come all the way from Sydney so it was very disappointing that she had an accident on day 1. Thank goodness I had some first aid training. We spent the evening in casualty and I could not believe it when she was wheeled from the treatment room with TWO bandaged legs: stitches in the right knee and a sprained left ankle.
Being a well-adjusted sort of person she decided that she would simply have a different sort of trip – relaxing and reading. She travelled by bus and taxi and I was fortunate to meet a Canadian surgeon who walked at my pace and was interesting to talk to. It would be tough to get lost because there are lots of waymarks ranging from yellow painted arrows to various representations of the pilgrims’ badge of the cockle shell
I tried hard not to be a history bore but collected many photos of identikit mediaeval chapels like this one:
One of the best preserved villages is the tiny O Cebreiro which is a must-see if you are in the area; some of its buildings are thatched in direct descent from bronze age huts.
After a week’s walking (max was only 15 miles per day) we made it to Monte de Gozo, the Mount of Joy, where pilgrims got their first site of the cathedral shrine that was their goal. I was looking forward to a good view but what an anti-climax! We could see suburbs, but the towers were hidden by a bunch of trees to which somebody needs to take a chainsaw. There is only an ugly monument (and a chapel of course) and not even a cafe – the rest of the route is well supplied with cafes and bars, very civilised.
The old city of Santiago is delightful and would make a good weekend trip from the UK. Lots of history, but also amazing architecture, great bars, amazing cake shops and some really top class seafood restaurants. And here is the goal of the Camino:
Originally C12th Romanesque, the baroque facade changed the cathedral’s exterior character entirely. Inside the simple lines remain with the exception of the sanctuary which is wonderfully tastelessly baroqued with masses of gilded angels.
PS Here’s one for Terry:
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