BMC International Meet

The prospect of being a host at the 2006 BMC International meet at Plas y Brenin, North Wales, was a daunting one! All those super hard climbers from all over the world… What had I let myself in for?

In fact it was a great week. I was paired up with a newly qualified German guide (Max) at first and then with a Manchester based (an impostor?) Czech (Jarek) for the second half. Nice guys and well up for climbing in Wales courtesy of the BMC.

Almost every aspect of North Wales (slate to Cloggy, Llanberis Pass to Gogarth, Llyn Peninsula to Tremadog) seemed to be taken by storm. These guys are all amazing climbers, some at the top of the game and some taking their first steps leading.
I think everyone had fun, I certainly did, not withstanding notable events like the Lithuanian “near death” ground fall from an E5 at Rhoscolyn…

Check out more pictures here…

A Cold + Sunny Whit’s End Direct, Gimmer

It can’t be true, the second bank holiday of the rock climbing season proper and it’s nice weather again! The gods must be smiling on climbers for a change!

Sunny, but with the bitingly cold wind, I nearly whimped out on to the VS (Whit’s End) as I couldn’t feel my finger tips. However, a rest and a warm up in the sun shine pushed me on with the Direct (E1). What a great route. The crux overhang seemed easy – hooray – I must have got that one right. I had wanted to do Spring Bank (E2) too, but that has even smaller holds and with cold fingers… Maybe next time.

Pavey Ark Rock in March

Capella (E1) is an awesome route in any conditions. It has everything – a great line, rough Langdale rock at its best, good protection, superb moves, and all in an absolutely amazing position high up on Pavey Ark in the Langdale valley. However, add all these ingredients of a classic route to a deserted crag in early March with brilliant sunshine, a snowy backdrop (complete with a frozen tarn), and you have all you need for a very memorable day par excellence!