• Here you see a nice picture of Bernie crossing the summit blocks.

  • Here you see Mario on the first pitch, which takes the ridge slightly to the right.

  • Vajolet Towers

Vajolet Towers – Delagokante

The Delagokante is the one that features in every Dolomite calendar, numerous postcards and picture books. You’€™d never believe that a route of reasonable grade goes up the left hand skyline!

Vajolet Towers

The Vajolet Towers lie in the Catenaccio group, high above and to the west of Val di Fassa in the western Dolomites. Terry and Bernie had been after the Delago for years but it does provide a slight logistics problem. First of all, you have to catch a little private bus up to the Gardeccia hut (only 9 euro return and it knocks 2-3 hours off the walk). Then you walk an hour to the Vajolet Hut, from where you can do the route. But better still is to walk another hour, up via ferrata, to the Alberto Hut, which is only 10 minutes from the start of the climb, facilitating a leisurely 8 am start. So this year we decided to go for it.

Already, even at the starting ledge, there is an aura of exposure. We were just beaten to the start by two young Austrian lads, who proved to be amenable climbing companions. Here you see Terry and Mario looking quite tense. Fortunately we knew that the belay stances all had cemented anchors. Unfortunately, there’€™s not much fixed in between.

Here you see Mario on the first pitch, which takes the ridge slightly to the right.

But pitch 2 is the corker. From the small stance, you have to swing around to take the ridge on the left. We thought there’d be bolts or pegs but there’€™s nothing until an old peg, way above where you really needed it. So we were not really able to photograph this pitch, except for Bernie coming out of it. I can fairly confidently say it was the most exposed pitch I’d ever been on.

Here you see a nice picture of Bernie crossing the summit blocks.

Last of all, a dramatic rappel heading for the chockstone bridge between the Delago and Stabler towers, the first and scariest of a number of rappels!

10 thoughts on “Vajolet Towers – Delagokante”

  1. Hello Terry!
    It was a really nice route.

    Can u tell me about how pitch is the route and how much hard?
    As u have seen there is a full classic route, or there are some belay dot as well?

    😉

  2. Yeah, like you we’d never made it there before, though always wanted to. So this time we based ourselves in Val di Fassa and researched the route and the approach well. It paid off. Not only was it an incredible route but we found the Val di Fassa much cheaper than Cortina (where we had always based ourselves before) amd much livelier and friendlier. We had some great nights 😳

      1. Note Terry’s earlier comment to Ian: they treated themselves now with beer whereas earlier it used to be cakes! Might be the reason why they found Val di Fassa livelier … 😈

  3. yeah, we stayed in Canazei – would definitely recommend it – good cheap B&B

    One reason why it might have been more lively is that it was the Italian holiday time (August) and therefore very busy. We’ve normally been in July.

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