We flew into a village called Narsarsuaq (population 190) and within 30 mins were in a vehicle (with only 2nd gear – they were awaiting a part) and off to the port (1 mile away!). We were dropped off down the coast at a sheep farm and walked to a village called Igaliku (pop. 60). After a nights rest, we started our 4 day hike to Qaqortoq (guide books recommended 5-7 days); during which the sun shone (wish we’d taken sun cream), the scenery was fab and the remoteness was wonderful. After five days of pasta and sauce we feasted on chips at the Seaman’s mission and wallowed in the shower! The following day got the boat to Narsaq, a lovely, quieter village, with an awesome café (A21) in which, much cake was eaten and many cups of coffee consumed. Took a trip to the inland ice and later had cured reindeer/musk ox and musk ox steak/catfish in the restaurant. Following, stocked up on food at the supermarket (e.g. suspect rice, musk ox with hairs in) and set off north up the peninsula. Saw the northern lights (white) on the first night and then were met by much fog the second day – which we managed to stay above of all day. Paths were even less visible than the first 4 day walk and ankles got re-stretched progressively more. After 3 days, got to a wonderful view point overlooking the Qorooq Icefjord… and found a worm in the plat-y-pus. Finally reached Qassiarsuk – where Erik the Red landed, and got a boat back to Narsarsuaq. Had a 2 day trip up to the glacier at the back of Narsarsuaq and ate much in the Narsarsuaq hotel (just about every meal).

And there were no mosquitoes!