In Pursuit of the Ideal Crack

Mindful of Keith’s comments below, Terry with Chris set off not for Stanage but North Wales in search of cracks.

We went to Ynys via the Molewyns, where the top crack of ‘Pinky’ has always looked impressive from below….

Here is the very nice 4c crack, not nearly as hard as the that Z one last week!

Next day, we set off for Rhoscolyn where I thought the crack of Icarus on the Sun Walls might provide further ‘training’ of the sort Keith had envisaged.

Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately), a group was just about to start it. However, we did bump in to Geraldine, who was belaying her partner on ‘The Savage Sunbird’….

Geraldine below ‘Savage Sunbird’, sends her regards.

We moved on to Fallen Block Zawn, where I had a default route of ‘Truant’, another crack line, in mind.

Quite an airy descent in to that one, with the menacing seagull (or maybe his son) still in residence.

However, ‘Truant’ was wet from the tide in the lower part and oozed seepage in the upper part. Not an attractive proposition. There is not much else in that Zawn below E3 except for……

The excellent Severe, ‘Baggers Crack’, which we took to get out….as the first rain drops fell.

2 thoughts on “In Pursuit of the Ideal Crack”

  1. Ah, if only I’d known, I could have got a shot of the cracks on pitch 3 of Banzai Pipeline… First perfect hand jamming, then knuckle twisting finger jams, which (having used my .5 Friend lower on the pitch) was quite exciting with no protection…

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